The West Coast Trail has many great places to stop and enjoy. Chez Monique links the east to the west, right on the beach along the trail. This is a one-stop shop, offering some of the most missed things on this multi-day hiking adventure.
The 77 km of rugged trails on the west coast provide little relief from exhausting days of hiking. Backpacking along muddy trails, over and around constant obstacles increases appreciation for good things very quickly. The simplest things turn into pleasures throughout this hiking adventure. But most people don’t really plan for the little pleasures that make for a great trip. Luckily for us hikers, there is a short rest stop along the way.
Between Carmanah Creek and Carmanah Light Station, Peter and Monique Nytom operate a restaurant called “Chez Monique” right next to the beach at their home. In recent years, the couple have built their garden to supply some of the restaurant’s food. Monique enrolled in a college agriculture and gardening program a couple of years ago to learn more about west coast garden development. They have enjoyed Wwoofers help since 2008 to further build and develop the garden.
Chez Monique is an oasis in the middle of the rugged trail. Offering burgers, sodas, beer, candy, and conversation, Monique and Peter give weary hikers a welcome relief at the 45km mark. You can camp on the beach near the restaurant, providing a second chance for a morning chat. Breakfast at Chez Monique, along with coffee or hot chocolate, tops off the stop, but makes it very difficult to leave. Peter is a member of the Ditidaht gang and Chez Monique is on one of their most remote reservations. Few of the Ditidaht live in these remote reserves for more than a few months at a time, but Monique and Peter have been here year-round for many years. This is starting to change as they get older and they need to be closer to support. Monique is a Metis, originally from the east, from French Canada, but has made her home on Vancouver Island, contributing significantly over the years to the Ditidaht and all First Nations peoples during her adult life. Every year it is now a question of whether this incredible restaurant will continue to exist as the couple ages. They hope that their children and grandchildren will continue their home and their legacy.
Peter regularly collects supplies from Port Refrew and fishes his boat, while Monique sets the tone in the restaurant and garden. While Peter tends to be quiet, Monique is outspoken and ready to chat about the area and politics at the touch of a touch, but is primarily mindful of looking after the guests in the restaurant at any time. The Wwoofers have added a new dimension to the place, giving it an international character and creating more opportunities for conversation at a stop at Chez Monique.
The meals are excellent and very welcome if you have only brought dry food or ramen noodles. A burger and a beer or soda is a reward for going about halfway there. Don’t expect to pay city prices here. The prices are a bit higher than in the city, but of course, you have to arrive by boat. If you want to eat, have a couple of drinks, coffee, and have breakfast in the morning, expect to scrap around $ 50 or more, so make sure you pack enough money. Don’t forget the crab or salmon on the Nitinat ferry as well. Expect another $ 30 to $ 40 there too.
Heading north from Chez Monique, expect to take a side trip to the Carmanah light station. If the tides are okay, head over the cliff at the end of the station to the beach, and head towards Dare Beach on the lower route. Heading south takes you to Carmanah Creek and then Bonilla Point towards Walbran Creek, increasing the difficulty on the trail.
Walking the west coast trail is a challenge at any time. Once you’ve figured out the organization, equipment, food, clothing, and fitness, there is the royal road itself. Filled with incredible scenery and experiences, the trail is an extraordinary personal journey. A break from the inner and thoughtful nature of hiking tours occurs at Chez Monique, with a short interlude of excellent conversation, food and drink. Do not miss it.