Cavatelli: writing or saying the word as it is written is somewhat embarrassing. To any Italian-American, this dish is called “Gah-vah-offers.’ Any Italian-American knows that word by the way it was pronounced. Of course, the correct Italian is “cavatelli” (Kha-vah-count-ee). Back in the day, in the 1950s and 1960s, cavatelli was a special dinner that appeared on the table on special occasions. Cavatelli were not made at home in my house. They came from two very different sources. Most of the time, my father bought the cavatelli at an old-fashioned store in West Philly, where he also bought the homemade ricotta. In those days, ricotta came in a perforated metal container that was covered with a plastic sheet held on with a rubber band. We used to make wind-up phones out of the cans. The other source for cavatelli was our neighbor, Alfred the tailor, whose wife made and shipped them herself. Alfred and his wife also made their own wine and grew a row garden of lush red tomatoes and green chard. The old shop is long gone, as is Alfred, but cavatelli is a very easy and quick pasta to make at home. It is also one of those foods that offers a certain tactile enjoyment in its preparation. The plain dough has a silky smooth, skin-like feel that is pleasant to fold and roll.

In some traditions, cavatelli are confused with gnocchi. But cavatelli and gnocchi are very different creations. Gnocchi are made with potatoes or cheese. They are plump and rich. Cavatelli, on the other hand, has a firmer texture. Unlike many other pastas, cavatelli does not contain eggs. In this way they are part of the family of Neapolitan macaroni. Most of the recipes found on Google Italy use semolina flour, but since semolina is not always available, I have used regular unbleached flour. Cavatelli are the simplest mixture of flour and water worked by hand. The pasta is then rolled and cut into walnut-sized pieces. The pieces are flattened and then rolled in on themselves against a small stick on the back of a knife. The only trick to the preparation of flour and water is the proportions. Generally, about a cup of water will work with about two and a half cups of flour. But as you mix, add the water slowly. But, if the dough is too wet, just add a little more flour. You really can’t make a mistake as long as you get a workable mass. Cavatelli are probably best with a sweet pork or wild boar ragout, but you can also serve them white with a vegetable in a cream sauce. Many Italian recipes make cavatelli with all kinds of shellfish, including shrimp and mussels. Whichever way you choose, cavatelli can be prepared in just a few minutes and is among the simplest and most satisfying of traditional pasta dishes.