The handbrake pads on a Jaguar E-Type are located within the rear subframe and operate on top of the discs. While this makes access difficult, it is quite possible to change the brake pads without removing the subframe, saving considerable cost / time if you know how to do it. Most of the work is relatively straightforward and the only part where access makes things difficult is the readjustment of the retractor plate designed to separate the calipers when the brakes are released. This can also be achieved without too much effort with the right approach. These instructions apply to all 6-cylinder models equipped with self-adjusting parking brakes, which are almost the first models. They are a supplement to the instructions in the Jaguar workshop manual.

The picture shows the front side of the subframe with a rear foot brake caliper in the middle and the front of the differential housing in the background at the bottom left. The handbrake calipers are attached to the footbrake calipers by means of two pivot bolts. These bolts also hold the retractor plate in position with its two prongs that extend into the two halves of the caliper.

The process is the following:

1. Remove the split pin and clevis pin that attach the operating lever to the parking brake linkage.

2. Bend down the locking tabs and remove the 7/16 “pivot bolts, locking tab, and retractor plate.

3. Push the caliper on top of the disc toward the rear of the car. The caliper can be removed from the subframe through the center opening at the rear of the subframe.

4. Loosen the 5/16 “nuts that hold the pads to the brackets; there is enough space between the reinforcing ribs to turn a 12-point ring wrench. In the unlikely event that the clamp bolts are not too tight rusted, you can slide off the old pads with the help of a few taps.You are more likely to be completely removing the bolts and replacing them at the same time.

5. Fit the new pads taking care to mount them in the correct way: the triangular edge up and the chamfer towards the adjusting bolt that joins the two halves of the caliper.

6. You will now find that there is not enough free space between the disc pads and you will need to reset the autotuning mechanism. Simply hold one of the caliper halves and turn the other counterclockwise to unscrew the adjuster until the inner faces of the pads are 12mm apart.

7. You are now ready to re-insert the forceps. Push them in and around the top of the puck by the way they came out.

8. Align the retractor plate with the two mounting holes, position the locking tab on top, and insert the pivot bolts into the holes, hopefully finding the holes in the parking brake calipers with one judicious movement. Squeeze them gently, but not completely, as it will probably pull them back.

9. This is where the problem occurs. In all likelihood, the teeth on the retractor plate will not line up with the holes in the top of the forceps. If the subframe is outside of the car, this is not a problem, but with the subframe on there is no way you can get anything in to bend the teeth into the holes. But don’t despair. Get an inspection mirror like the one dentists use and look closely to see which way each tooth is and how far. Take note of this, unscrew the pivot bolts and remove the retractor plate. Bend the tines according to your estimates and then reinsert them. You may have to do this a couple of times, but once you get it right, you can reach for the teeth with a screwdriver and push them into the holes.

10. Now you can tighten the pivot bolts properly and push up on the locking tabs.

11. Pull the operating lever repeatedly until the ratchet on the self-adjusting mechanism stops clicking.

12. Replace the clevis pin that attaches the operating lever to the parking brake linkage and install a new pin.

13. Adjust the parking brake according to the manual as necessary.