Within the infamous Golden Triangle bordering Thailand, Laos and Burma lies Mai Sai, the northernmost district of Chiang Rai. Here travelers will find a bridge that divides two worlds, one is the rise of Thailand and the other is the country hidden under an opium-laced shadow, Burma. Burma, whose government changed its name to Myanmar, is one of the most remote countries in the world, a mysterious and uncharted destination for Western travellers, a country untouched by the momentum of development.

We stumble upon a makeshift car park and give the attendant 10 baht to look after our rental car, from here it’s just a short walk to the Mai Sai border crossing. Being from Australia we had never walked to another country and the thought of walking to Burma made the 4 hour drive from Chiang Mai worth it. At the border we are ushered into a small and unusually hot room where a man in a military uniform sits behind his desk and asks about our intentions in visiting his country. His English is hard to understand and before we can reply he tells us that we are only visiting for the day to shop at the border markets. 500 baht is handed over and to our surprise the passports are held and will supposedly be returned when we try to return to the Kingdom of Thailand. The already sour heat is even more sweaty knowing that we are walking towards Burma without passports.

The markets are teeming with stalls and products overflowing into narrow pathways pushed at us by men and boys with baskets of enhancement pills and questionable DVDs available at “cheap cheap prices.” Remembering the advice I received from a drunk expat the night before at a bar, I move my wallet to the front pocket of my jeans, this is not just a precaution, it is necessary. When the senses begin to calm down, there are plenty of bargains to be found if you have a keen eye and time to sift through the trash. Everything is cheap here, cheaper than Chiang Mai’s popular night markets which now offer market produce at tourist prices. There is a copy, a counterfeit, a ‘real copy’ or a look-alike for just about any product you can think of. The watches look good until you realize they are twice as thick as the real thing; however, this is forgiven when you realize that the designer watch on offer at Tachileik will only set you back a couple of cappuccinos in your hometown. I show interest in a table of designer pens and suddenly a young girl hands me one and asks me to test the quality, surprisingly it writes very well and equally amazing are the English girls compared to their Thai sisters. Then another girl hands me another pen that also looks nice and is surprisingly useful. This went on until there were six girls at the table and I tried 6 pens, after some intense negotiation we agreed on 2 pens at 300 baht, approx US$8.

Two hours of walking, negotiating and dodging the occasional motorbikes speeding through the narrow market streets, a couple of sneaky photos of the market and we decide we’ve had enough adventure for the day and head back to Thailand. Returning to Thailand is a relief, as passports are returned and stamped with a minimum of fuss and the harassment of youngsters desperate for loose change is left behind.

Although not the real Burma, it was an interesting and unique experience that resulted in some fascinating memories, a couple of undercover photos and a Myanmar Walk stamp in the passport. Visiting Burma was a choice we made lightly and as we learned more about the military controlled country it became clear that the choice needs to be given more thought and consideration. More locally to Mai Sai is the depressing environment of illegal border crossings, drugs and human trafficking, all global problems too easily forgotten when on vacation.

The drive back to Chiang Mai up the mountain takes us to Chiang Rai and a stop at the famous White Temple (Wat Rong Khun). White Temple is a modern temple designed and built by the artist Chalomchai Khositphiphat about 10 years ago. The intricate details that cover the grand temple are an incredible sight and the all-white design with silver edges that shimmer over dragons and other mythical creatures creates a surreal vibe. The site also has a room displaying paintings by Chalomchai Khositphiphat.

A few dodged cows and a bit of nervousness waiting for the first gas station in Chiang Mai and we arrived safely after dark, ready to tell the story of our trip to Tachileik over some Chaing’s.